12 October 2025

Amsterdam A-Z: De Wallen

Most people know of De Wallen, even if they don’t recognise the name. Amsterdam’s red-light district is a popular tourist attraction. The area has been home to the city’s prostitutes since medieval times. It is conveniently close to the city centre, harbour and shipyard, situated between Dam Square, and the burgwal (defensive wall with a canal), from which the name derives.

Before the Dutch won independence from Spain in 1581, Amsterdam’s Catholic authorities tried to curb trade by forbidding priests and married men from entering the area. After independence, De Wallen’s streets became even more crowded and notorious, as the city grew to be the wealthiest in northern Europe. The now Protestant authorities passed new laws to make prostitution illegal, but only succeeded in moving it indoors to the benefit of brothel owners. Despite the predominant Dutch Reformed Church’s emphasis on godly behaviour, there were still plenty of willing customers.

My protagonist Alexander Baxby visits 1600s De Wallen in my novel Naming the Dead, hoping to find a missing Englishwoman. He is taken by another female immigrant who knows several others working there. Having met prostitutes and a brothel administrator during my years as a part-time prison chaplain, I knew their stories are often more varied than people might imagine. However, drugs are a regular theme. Now Amsterdam is associated with cannabis, whereas tobacco and opium were arriving from the West and East Indies in Baxby’s time.


Naming in Blood
(Baxby Mystery #2) is available on Kindle Unlimited and to buy at US Link and UK Link